Complete bird prototype

Images above show the completed bird prototype! I'm so happy with how this came out; I was able to experiment with different materials and methods to see what worked best. I feel like I'll be able to go on and make replicas of these, (or at least different breeds of birds using similar processes) a lot more confidently now. Understanding even small details such as 'which kind of wire is appropriate for which parts' was integral in figuring out how to carry this forward and make something successful from it.

This prototype could either go forward and be painted and detailed, or I could leave it as a demonstration of the progressive creative processes that have occurred during this project. Depending on time restrains I'll either paint it and finish it, or leave it as it is to demonstrate an example of prototyping.

Tail construction

After figuring out the sizing, I cut two simple pieces from calico and stitched one side together. A piece of folded wire was slotted inside creating a rectangular shaped skeleton; this was so it could be bent and posed with the rest of the puppet. I also decided to put a small amount of wadding inside the tail as well, to fill it out a little bit rather than have it look too flat or thin next to the rest of the puppet. I then stitched the other sides together and attached it to a seam at the back of the bird. I put some simple lines down the tail to give a little more definition too. The images show what it looks like from above and below.

Bird body prototype progress

These photos show two different poses and ways the bird can sit. The feet feel delicate and like real little toes! I'm so happy with how this has turned out so far! The visual differences between folded, angled wings and outstretched, flying wings can also be seen. I'm also pleased with the scale of the bird; it's 1:1 and fits nicely in my hand, which is what I wanted to achieve. 

My next step will be to sculpt a head to fit this, and begin figuring a way to affix this. 

I would also like to create a tail to balance out the body and have a base to  potentially sew longer tail feathers too. 

Wing progress and assembly

At this point both of the wings have been finished; poseable, with a wire skeleton armature and hand sewn plush exterior. They're symmetrical and would be ready to have feathers sewn into them, or perhaps other conventional materials?

The next step was to sew them into the body section, This was done after affixing the legs onto the body piece. I wanted to make sure there was enough room for the legs as they take up more space than the wigs do. I pinned them in place at first to check the positioning of them, then sewed in several anchors to attach them without compromising mobility. 

Second leg and assembly and wire experimentation

For the second leg I decided to experiment with a different kind of wire to see how it would affect the mobility of the piece. This wire was a lot thinner, so I assumed it would be more flexible but with less strength behind it. It was, however, a lot easier to twist together; the metal is so soft it makes it extremely to connect and intertwine.

After finishing this leg, I discovered it was indeed quite a bit weaker than the thicker wire I used for the main length of the first leg. The joint between the stuffed thigh piece and the red leg piece is especially weak, which is one of the essential joints and places that needs support. This is especially vital is posing the model for stop motion; it needs to be able to support the rest of the puppet without fear of movement or slippage. Because of this, I feel that the wire materials used for the first leg were more suitable. 

Once the leg was complete, I hand sewed both onto the body piece, finishing off with a jot of glue. I would ideally like these legs to be rotatable at the joint between the thigh and the body, but for this project I'm going to focus more on the mobility of the wings, secure in the knowledge that most of the legs have the flexibility of the wire. 

Leg and foot construction

1) I cut a simple back leg/ bird thigh shape, from a small and basic paper pattern which I measured next to the body. These calico pieces were then pinned together to keep them in place.

2) These were then hand sewn together, with a gap at the front to allow the wire armature inside later. Two of these thigh pieces were made, then put to the side for now.

3) I formed a foot shape from the wire, then covered in two layers of masking tape. This was done quite precisely, as I didn't want to make the same mistake of making them too bulky. I cut the masking tape up into very small rectangles in order to place them accurately.

4) Red cotton was then wrapped tightly around the skeleton, so the whole leg, foot and toes are now completely poseable!

I'm really pleased with how this has turned out! I'm glad I've achieved the mobility I wanted, whilst maintaining the desired shape and strength!

Feather laying experiment

I wanted to experiment with laying feathers in such a way that could mimic feathers on a birds wing, and noticed that they lay in line formation, overlapping each other like scales. I firstly organised all the feathers I was going to use by size; three piles of big, medium, and small. The big ones would go on the bottom, and smallest on top so they would all be visible and would have the correct layered formation I wanted to achieve.

The method I used was to first anchor the thread in place, then create a very small loop that the stem of the feather could be pushed through, then tightened. This would be repeated several times, until the feather was secured.

Prototyping the first wing: Maquettes and plush models

1) Image one shows the wire armature I designed to fit inside the wing. I figured out this specific shape and number of spokes needed for the puppet after studying real life wings and their forms. I feel that if I hadn't put this amount of study into understanding the 'mechanics' of real life bird wings, they wouldn't look as good in terms of shape, and would probably appear more stereotypically cartoonish. 

2) Once I'd glued together the wire skeleton using superglue (it had to be strong so it wouldn't fall apart inside the wing,) I layed it down on top of the wing shape that had previously been drawn out on calico.

3) I cut out these wings on folded fabric so I'd have an exact replica to sew together; forming two sides of the same wing.

4) A small piece of wadding that would fit the wing was cut out and pinned in place with one of the wing sides. 

5) I created several anchor points by glueing the wire to the fabric. This was so it wouldn't move around too much once the wing had been sewn up. 

6) The two sides of the wing were lined up together and pinned in place. 

7) These were then hand sewn together; I used the pin to push the stuffing down inside of the wing as I went, so it wasn't sticking out too much. Either way, this is first and foremost a prototype, so the messiness and experimentation I try to encourage within myself. This method could still be used in the final piece though, as fabric or feathers will be used to cover it. I'm also becoming more and more interested in the idea of 'unconventional fabrics.'

8) The wing is now poseable!  

Costume tutorial: Padding a mannequin

1) Its quick and easy to use wadding in order to pad a mannequin, however you can achieve a more precise and subtle pad by halving the wadding sheets you're using, especially if they're thick. Padding is used to make the mannequin more realistic to the model you're sewing for. Pin close to the body; the proper way to pad is to pin at first then herringbone stitch the padding afterwards once you're happy with it.
2) Layer up the padding depending on how much you need. 

3) For the waist you can simply wrap wadding around the mannequin to layer it.  

1) For the breast area, use wadding of different sized circles. This will maintain a good shape of a body and stop it from looking boxy. With wadding it's possible to get quite defined and harsh lines, so taking thinner pieces of wadding and using them to blend in the bigger pieces is a good way of creating smoother curves. 

2) In the case of creating fat suits, you would gradually build up the places you would need the extra weight. Rough circular shapes are good for both fat suit padding as well as breast and bum pads; they don't need to be perfect! The most important thing is to measure constantly! Every time a layer is added you will need to check measurements against the models own to ensure you haven't gone over, or if you still need to add more. Always remember to smooth lines as you go too!
Another good tip is to make shapes out of the wadding to match the part of the body you're padding, e.g. ovals for the bum and belly, and circles for the chest etc.

Pleating the padding is an option if you're dealing with a difficult corner, like a shoulder. Underwear like corsets and bras can be out on top of the padding to achieve the shape you want, just remember to re-measure every time! And always remember to use a herringbone stitch to attach layers together; it allows for movement but still keeps the layers flat.